Key takeaways:
- With brand exhibitions becoming increasingly popular among luxury brands in China, hard luxury is starting to catch up.
- Brands like Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet are some of the representative examples this year.
- From exhibition locations to archival pieces and tributes to Chinese cultural influence, these brands are showcasing some of the biggest trends to come.
Watches and jewellery have been bearing the brunt of the headwind against luxury. China is one of the markets that brands are either trying to push or avoid a slowdown in. With the rise of museums, exhibitions and experiential retail, branded exhibitions have been more popular than ever, for luxury, fashion or otherwise. So, what’s new for brand exhibitions in China today, especially for hard luxury? Four examples this year illustrate the new trends perfectly.
Van Cleef & Arpels: Global
Van Cleef & Arpels took the approach of centralised messaging by bringing a global travelling exhibition to Shanghai. The Poetry of Time opened at the West Bund Dome Art Centre (西岸穹顶艺术中心) on 1 July and will run until 11 August. The exhibition was previously shown in London last May and June before being transferred.
The free exhibition focuses on the Maison’s high-end watchmaking and is an immersive experience. From “cabinets of curiosity” that show off historical archives and museum pieces to watchmaking workbenches that indicate the mastery of craftsmanship in the timepieces. The exhibition is divided into themed areas showing Van Cleef & Arpels’s iconic motifs in watchmaking, from ballet dancers, fairies, to astrological themes, nature and love stories. The centrepiece of the display, the automated mechanical Planétarium, also enjoyed its debut in China.
The new exhibition is designed to translate across locations and cultures
Like the previous The Art of Movement exhibition that travelled to Wuhan and Guangzhou in China before going to Sydney, Australia, the new exhibition is designed to translate across locations and cultures. This also offers an aesthetic with the “country of origin” in mind, creating the luxury brand narrative that is centred on the romanticism of France.
Chaumet: hyper–localised
Chaumet, on the other hand, was at the other end of the spectrum with its exhibition by a partner in a museum exhibition in Hangzhou. Chaumet worked with the Zhejiang Provincial Museum as an official partner for the “Blooming: Curated Art Collections from the 16th to 20th Century” exhibition.
Open until 8 October this year, the exhibition features around 320 displays from both China and abroad, dating back to the 5th century. Its emphasis is on China’s cross-border trade and communications with the world, especially the West. Chaumet, also a Parisian Maison, brought 40 specimens from its treasured collection to the exhibition in Hangzhou.
Its emphasis is on China’s cross-border trade and communications with the world, especially the West
The display also spans over a century, from the early 19th century to the early 20th century, drawing on nature motifs and rococo designs that are iconic to the Maison. But most importantly for this exhibition, 10 pieces of jewellery with oriental, especially Chinese, influences are also on display.
Chaumet not only partnered with a museum for its exhibition in China, but also brought China-inspired items to showcase the long history of influence from Chinese art and culture on Western designs, especially in the 19th Century, hooking Chinese audiences. In addition, it showcased its nature and classically inspired pieces that are decidedly European, creating a great entry point to the brand for exhibition goers.
Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
We reported on these exhibitions previously, and both share some similarities to the tactics used by Van Cleef & Arpels and Chaumet. However, when looking at these branded exhibitions together, we can distil some of the latest trends.
Both exhibitions were hosted to commemorate brand anniversaries, and like the two brands mentioned above, they place historical archives at the forefront. The Audemars Piguet exhibition was hosted at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre, while the Vacheron Constantin exhibition was a pop-up at Zhangyuan in Shanghai. When discussed alongside the Chaumet and Van Cleef exhibitions, it signifies that the location of branded exhibitions has become more varied. Notably, the Vacheron Constantin exhibition also paid homage to the many inspirations it drew, including the Chinese one, and put a Qing-era robe on display.
In 2025, hard luxury, namely jewellers and watchmakers, are staging exciting exhibitions across China. It seems that both the scale and location are becoming more adaptable, suiting the brands’ needs. Some are focusing on Chinese connections, while others are mostly about the brand’s history. Archival pieces, however, are prevalent across all.
This way, not only can the brand showcase its storytelling through either immersive or educational experiences, but it can also pique the interests of Chinese visitors, as traditional culture and aesthetics are all the rage among young Chinese consumers.
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