Sheconomy and female gaze consumption have become two of the most talked-about topics when discussing women consumers in China, with boy bands and otome games making waves across the country. Now, leading hot pot chain, Haidilao, has unlocked a new mode for its hot pot spots: nightclub mode.
Every night, after dinner hour, some Haidilao restaurants switch from their usual warm white lighting to cool, atmospheric lighting, with a DJ set on stage. Male “hosts”, gym-bodied models or K-pop-style idols, dressed in tank tops, open shirts or maid dresses, dance provocatively for the diners, who are mostly women. People at the front of the audience can even touch the performers’ abs if they wish. This type of event usually starts around 9:40 PM and requires pre-booking. Haidilao first introduced “nightclub mode” in Guangzhou in January before launching it across China.
In late June, it was reported that a customer suffered sudden hearing loss at a Haidilao restaurant in “nightclub” mode. The restaurant took the customer to the hospital but insisted that the sound system’s 100db volume was within a safe hearing range, and that each night, DJs ask customers to move to quieter parts of the restaurant if they dislike the loud music.
Haidilao has been diversifying its investments with bakeries and higher-end dining experiences. However, turning its main hot pot joints into nightclubs at night is a different approach, because the other ventures are under separate brands that are distinct from Haidilao. The “late-night supper”, or “nightclub mode”, however, happens after dinner hours in regular Haidilao restaurants. This is why some pundits fear that the hosts and models might dilute the brand. The sold-out shows are an indicator of how female buying power continues to be at work. In fact, some commentators have pointed out that nightclubs and karaoke are also waning, as people are less inclined to spend on nightlife. The novelty of Haidilao, in fact, also helps DJ and dancers bring back this culture, just at hot pot restaurants.
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