ICICLE De Sarno appointment: Key takeaways
- ICICLE has hired former Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno, whose debut collection will coincide with its 30th anniversary in 2027
- An investment from Kering supports ICICLE’s overseas expansion as the brand looks to expand its handbags and footwear segments
ICICLE (之禾) has recruited Gucci’s former creative director Sabato De Sarno as the brand prepares to expand business in its overseas markets. De Sarno’s first drop for the brand will be a 2027-28 Autumn/Winter line that coincides with ICICLE’s 30th anniversary.
De Sarno’s first drop for the brand will be a 2027-28 Autumn/Winter line
ICICLE is one of a few Chinese brands giving Made in China in a new definition. They founded in Shanghai in 1997 and built an identity around natural fabrics and Chinese manufacturing expertise. The style is sleek, and – in contrast to Gucci’s bold statement pieces – pared back.
At Gucci, De Sarno combined clean tailoring with short hemlines, glossy leather and strong colour, creating a look that aligns well with ICICLE’s aesthetic.
Then there’s the backdrop of growth. ICICLE has more than 200 stores and has maintained a strong presence in the Paris fashion world since 2013. In April, Gucci’s parent company, Kering announced a minority investment in ICICLE’s parent, ICCF. The investment’s goal was to support international expansion.
ICICLE wants stores in London, Milan and the US. It also wants to expand its handbag and footwear business. De Sarno’s remit covers womenswear, menswear, accessories and eyewear, placing him in charge of creative direction across product segments that ICICLE plans to expand with Kering’s backing.
ICICLE wants stores in London, Milan and the US
The Dao view: Made in China needs to resonate the right way
De Sarno’s design approach appears compatible with ICICLE’s strengths. Kering’s backing adds support for expansion, but neither investment nor a prominent hire establishes demand. That will depend on whether new customers see enough value in ICICLE’s clothes to choose them in a crowded luxury market.
The challenge, then, is to make sure that consumers in Italy, the UK, and the US see Made in China as a statement of status, not one that denotes cheap manufacturing. De Sarno’s appointment is a way of giving that message some punch.
